Thursday, February 24, 2011

TUTORIAL: Step by step painting a Haradrim Warrior

STAGE ONE: A Basic ready-to-play paint job

After undercoating in chaos black, paint some of the cloth areas in Scab Red. I painted the headdress, and skirting.
next, paint some of the other cloth areas in Liche Purple. I did the cloth above the belt area, the arm, and the pants. I made a mistake here which I didn't notice until just now, and painted one leg in red instead of purple, but it looks fine on the finished figure anyhow.
next, paint the gold areas with shining gold
next paint the cloth bands/wraps (ankles, wrists, binding on spear) in kommando khaki

next paint the wood (spear shaft) and the bearded area (head below nose and up sides below ear) in scorched brown.
next paint the metal on the spear in mithril (brightest metal) and paint the skin on the face and hands with tallarn flesh. Paint the lower and upper lip in tallarn flesh as well, and when painting the ear/cheeks, it will help to define the appearance of the beard.
Now drybrush the cloak in codex grey. If you aren't familiar with drybrushing, you want a wider bristly brush, instead of one with a fine point. Dip the end of the bristles in a touch of paint, then scrub the brush on a tissue, until almost all of the paint is rubbed off. Then in a sideways scrubbing motion, brush the area softly - this leaves paint behind on the raised surfaces, and leaves the recesses dark, bringing out the raised details.
Now paint bleached bone onto the bones on the spear
lastly, with you smallest, thinnest pointed brush, carefully use scorched brown again, and paint the thin moustache line along the top lip on the face, to finish the bearded look (sorry, this photo was a bit blurry)

your figure is now ready for playing with - all parts of the model have been painted
However, to have a better looking figure, you will want to go on to the next two stages.


Using devlin mud or badab black, and a thick rounded brush, apply citedal wash all over the model. After drying the brush a bit on a tissue, dab softly at areas where the wash pools too thickly/darkly to sponge up some of the wash, leaving a model that has the wash's ink in all the recesses.
It looks great when it's still wet, but it will grow muted as it dries.
This will greatly improve the detail of the model, but it will also darken the model, resulting in a darker/muted look. To fix this, go on to the final Stage Three.

STAGE THREE: Highlighting

you now want to paint all the raised surfaces again, in their original colour. Because the wash darkens the surfaces, as well as shadowing the recesses, painting some of the original colour on just the raised surfaces adds a very nice contrast to the figure, gets rid of that muted look, and gives you a great finished product.

Paint scab red on the raised surfaces of the red cloth and liche purple on the purple cloth raised surfaces

then paint the kommando khaki on the sash and other wrapping (wrists, ankles, below spear tip)
now paint tallarn flesh again on the raised parts of the face and hands - I tend to put a blob on the cheekbones, and the bridge of the nose, then carefully brush the raised surfaces of the fingers. This adds a lot of depth to the appearance of the face.
now paint shining gold again, on the raised surfaces of the gold, and along the raised edges of the gold around his shoulders/neck - leaving the washed flat areas around his neck as they are.
then paint the raised middle, the tip, and the side edges of the spear blade again, in mithril, being careful to leave the washed shaded regions.
lastly, drybrush the codex grey on the cloak again
And you have the finished figure! Of course, I've only done one simple highlighting to the figure. There are other methods, and some people do numerous layers and things, but this shows what stages I am doing on my figures at the moment.